Coasters

These coasters are quick, easy and a great use for scraps, charm squares, and fat quarters. I prefer to use cotton fabrics and batting so that they remain absorbent, but feel free to use what ever you have on hand. There is also an iron-on vinyl product that can be added to your backing material to make them safer for use on furniture.

Here's what you need:

• 8 - 5" square pieces of fabric (two colors/patterns)
• 4 - 41/2" square pieces of batting
• Basic sewing supplies

Before you start, embellish the fabric any way you like. I've added a 'racing stripe' to mine. Keep in mind that you will be setting drink filled glasses on these so flatter is better. If you choose to piece your fabric (as in one of the finished examples) simply cut the pieced square to the 5" size.

Stack the front and back pieces of material, right sides together, and center the batting square on one side (do no 'sandwich' the batting inside the material, it will be on the wrong side when you turn it).

Next, stitch the stack together, being sure to leave an opening large enough to 'turn' the material. I generally start 3/4 of an inch from any corner, pivot on the corners, and stop 3/4 of an inch after the last corner. Your seam allowance should be just enough to catch the edge of the batting. If you are having trouble with the batting shifting, simply baste the batting in place in an 'x' across the square.

When you've completer the seam trim the excess fabric from corners; this helps eliminate bulk, and make the corners more square.

Turn the coaster inside out, being sure to push out all corners, and press. At this point you can hand stitch the opening closed with a hidden stitch (left example) or stitch a very narrow edge (starting at opening) all the way around the coaster (right example). Personally, I like the little edge, and I'm far too lazy to hand stitch anything.

The final step is to pour yourself an icy cold drink and give them a try.

Album Cover

This project quick, easy, and a great way to consume small bits of your stash. In this case I've covered a three ring notebook and filled it with acid free, clear protector sheets to create an album for post cards. But dont stop there, cover an inexpensive journal to use as a gift or make covers for kids school books using novelty fabric of their favorite cartoon characters or sports teams or create a wedding/baby album. As with the other projects, any thing goes!

What you'll need:

• Book, note book or journal to cover
• Fabric, two colors
• Basic sewing supplies

A three ring binder is a good item to use for your first cover because it opens completely flat and makes measuring easy. I wanted the spine to be a solid color, and the fabric to represent the contents of the album; in this case, post cards. Decide the width you want the spine color to be, and stitch it to two pieces of your coordinating fabric. Then trim final piece, leaving a 3/4" seam allowance top and bottom, and 5-6 inches on each side to form the 'pockets' for the cover.

Hem each end and press.

Place notebook on right side of fabric and pin hemmed sides over notebook to form pockets for the cover. Be careful to make the pockets the same size, and double check to make sure your coordinating color on the spine is centered on the spine.

Stitch up each side to secure pockets, turn cover right side out and press. (I used a serger for this step, if you do not have one you may want to leave yourself a full 1" seam allowance top and bottom, and put a narrow hem on those edges as the first step.) Press edges under and hem or glue in place.

Once dry, slip cover over your book and show it off!

Portable Quilting Work Area

This project is not going to reduce your stash, in fact, I'm going to send you to the store. Worse, I'm going to send you to the home improvement store. But, it will help you reduce your stash the next time the quilting bug bites you. I've only completed three quilts, all just a little larger than crib size, but even at that diminutive size I found work space to be a big issue. The one I am working on now, affectionately dubbed "The Bruise", is considerably larger and because I am 'designing as I go' I need to be able to see it as I work. My solution was to clear a spot on the floor and 'tile' it with quilt blocks. The problem was that every time I turned to look at it there was a cat, or dog, or, umm... a MAN standing on it. What I needed was a big bulletin board, but wall space too was a premium.

What to do? Simple, create a 'foldable' work area.

What you'll need:

(2) drapery brackets (as plain or as decorative as you like)

(1) rod (I used a composite closet rod - much cheaper than a true drapery rod, but not as rigid)

(1) sheet

basic hand tools

First determine how wide you want your new work space to be, and which wall you want it on. I opted to hang mine over my workroom's closet door. Which worked out quite well as the brackets are less noticeable against the door molding.

Then mount your brackets according to the package instructions, lay your rod across them, hang your sheet and voila!

Certainly the work area has some problems; it can be difficult to pin to as the fabric is mobile, it is almost impossible to pin the blocks perfectly square to each other, and, if you are short like me, you will need a step stool (which Daniel is modeling on in the first photo). It could also be far more elaborate by using a true drapery rod with finials, and pocketing the sheet for more stability. In a house with pets, and a MAN this is a much better way to protect a ‘wip’, with the added bonus of being able to fold the whole thing up and tuck it away when ‘company’s a commin’.

Drawstring Bag

This tutorial is for a small bag perfect for gifting stitch markers, jewelry or to store your grandmother's favorite thimble, and the sky is the limit for size, embellishment and material. It's a great way to use up the little pieces fabric we all accumulate (too little to use and too pretty to throw away).

I started off with four pieces of fabric cut to 4"x5".

Place each pair right sides together and stitch around three sides, leaving one short side open. Trim the corners and excess fabric.

Turn one bag inside out and press it flat. Slip the turned bag into the unturned one, match side seams and raw edges and pin.

Starting in the center of one side stitch around the top and stop about 1 1/2 inches from where you started. Turn the whole thing inside out through that gap, which will give you something that looks like this.

Fold the lining side into the outer side, and press flat. Slip stitch the gap closed.

If you are building a stash of these for gifting, this is a perfect place to stop. Applying the drawstrings and embellishments is a great 'anytime' project when you just want to do something creative.

To finish, use a large needle threaded with your drawstring of choice, start at one side and stitch in 1/2" stitches around top of the bag (through both layers) until you are back to the beginning.

Repeat this process starting from the other side of the bag, so that you have two pairs of loose ends, one on each side of the bag. These will draw the bag closed.

Now you need a pair of pulls to open the bag. Re-thread you needle and take a short stitch under each side seam, this time going between the two layers - to hide the trick.

And, voila a bag! Now to embellish the ends of the ties. Beads are quick and easy, and will work well with embroidery thread or ribbon. Another way to finish off the ends is with a fabric flower. This works well with embroidery thread as a drawstring as the knotted ends become the stamen for the flower. Cut a 2"x4" strip of fabric, fold in half lengthwise and right sides together, and stitch down edge opposite fold. Turn the tube inside out (a turning tool helps tremendously), and then turn it again, but stop half way. Repeat. This will give you two tubes, raw edges at one end - I usually leave the 'wrong side' a little longer than the other, so I can see where to tie it off.

Slip the tube onto the loose ends of one pair of drawstrings, the raw edge should be closer to the ends of the drawstring and the folded edge toward the bag. Thread one of the drawstring ends onto your needle and stitch it through both layers of the tube (if your drawstring is too short, insert the needle through both layers and then thread). Slide the tube along this string to where you want it so stop. Take a small piece of embroidery thread and tie it around the raw ends of the tube firmly. Also tie the ends of the drawstring together, this will keep it from slipping off. Knot and trim the drawstring ends, and put a dot of Fray Check on all of the knots you just made and trim long ends from tie at base of flower.

Turn the finished edge toward the knotted drawstring ends, hiding the raw edges. The finished end will look like a bell shaped flower. Done! Experiment with fabrics, ties, beads, ribbon and cord. Above all have fun! And reduce that stash!

Square Tote

To construct a pattern for a square bag, first decide on your finished dimensions. Take 10"w x 8"h x 4"d for example. To make a pattern for these dimensions simply consider width and depth together, and height by itself. Because the bag is only two pieces of fabric (not including embellishment or contrasting colors) the width and depth will become one dimension - 10 + 4 = 14, add in your seam allowance (x 2)*, 1/2 x 2 =1" and your fabric must be cut 15" wide. Height is figured similarly, but with only 1/2 the depth. 8" + 2" = 10, add in 1" seam allowance and fabric will be 11 inches high. To make the bottom square you must notch the corners by removing a square equal to 1/2 the depth, plus the seam allowance (do not multiply seam allowance this time). Each notch will be 2 1/2 inches square. and your pattern will look like this.

Grayed area is the original 10x8 dimension, dashed line is seam allowance. Sewing instructions are identical to the Pool Bag 2 instructions. This basic bag is very simple, giving you ample opportunity to play with dimension, embellishment and closures.

*I use 1/2 inch because the math is easy ;-), but usually sew a 1/4 allowance and trim the excess.

Pool Bag 2

This bag is my own pattern and is very similar to the previous bag. The primary exception being that the bottom of the bag is square, and much easier to produce than the oval bottom of the previous bag.

The previous bag started with cutting everything out, this time, we are making a two toned bag. I like to make super sure both sides match by sewing together my coordinating pieces first. I mark on my pattern how high I want the line to be and cut each piece of the outer fabric individually.

Then I cut the remaining pieces out. You should have the following:

• 2 outer pieces
• 2 lining pieces
• 4 interfacing
• 2 handles
• 2 interfacing (matching handle)

Start with the pocket, fold it in half wrong side out (along the same fold you cut it along). Stitch the bottom of the pocket closed and turn it right side out and press. Stitch pocket to one side of lining, about a 1/4 inch above the corner cutouts. Baste pocket along sides, remembering to stay between seam allowance and edge so you don't have to pick out baste.

Place second lining piece of face down on piece with pocket and sandwich with two pieces of interfacing on each side. Stitch up both sides and across bottom. DO NOT stitch corner cut outs yet. Match bottom seam to side seam on corner cut out, and stitch (making a box of bottom). Repeat on other side. Repeat with exterior fabric.

Lay bag parts aside, and move on to handles. Stack one piece of handle with one piece of handle interfacing (interfacing to wrong side of handle). Fold in half and iron. Fold raw edges to center of each fold and iron again. You should have a 'v' shaped piece of fabric, raw edges toward center of 'v'. Stitch handles 1/4 inch from each edge, go slowly, the thickness will try to wander.

Once handles are complete pin them to exterior bag (which should be right side out), 3/5 inches from edge. Use two pins on each handle to prevent them from slipping when you sew. If you want to use a ribbon closure pin it to center.

Once pinned slip exterior bag (still right side) into lining (wrong side out), the two right sides of your fabric should be facing each other and handles will be between layers.

Starting at one side seam sew with 1/2' seam allowance around top of bag. At each handle, sew across, reverse and sew across again. You will pass over each handle three times. When you reach fourth handle end complete the three passes and backtack to lock thread. DO NOT sew entire way around bag, you need the opening to turn the bag inside out. Carefully pull exterior of bag through hole and continue till whole bag is inside out.

Push lining into bag being sure to push out bottom corners so that top edge turns out entirely. Fold in and pin edges of the opening that you turned the bag through and press well.

Top stitch a 1/4 seam around top edge of bag, make sure you catch the folded under pieces of the turn opening. Finish by adding beads, if desired, to ribbon ends and tying. If you choose to leave ribbons as is, treat ends with Fray Check to prevent raveling. Press again and enjoy your new bag.

Pool Bag....

This little tote is perfect for a good paperback and a bottle of suntan lotion on your way to the pool. Two interior pockets, for keys and a drivers liscence (ya know in case the cabana boy wants to card you for your mai tai).



This is a variation of Simplicity pattern 9963. Of course the logical place to start is by cutting out the pattern. You will have the following

• 2 exterior fabric
• 2 lining fabric
• 4 interfacing (matching bag shape)
• 1 bottom exterior
• 1 bottom lining
• 2 bottom interfacing
• 2 handles
• 2 interfacing (matchine handles)

When you cut the pattern don't forget to clip notches as marked in pattern, these are reference points to help put the whole thing together. I prefer a pocket in the bag (not included in the pattern) so I add one by doing the following.


Select one side of the lining fabric and lay out on cutting table. Fold your uncut lining fabric to match the lining pattern. Fold should face top of bag and ends should be long enough so that when cut they will meet with lining edges. Pin folded piece to lining and flip the whole thing over, and cut out to match lining. Find vertical center (I usually just fold in half and iron) and stitch from bottom of bag to top of pocket along that center line. The bag pictured has a pencil pocket, made by measuring to either side of center and making two stitch lines from bottom of bag to top of pocket. Be sure to backstich over pocket edge a few times so its nice and strong.

Next make a sandwich, two pieces of interfacing, two lining pieces and two pieces of interfacing. Lining should be right sides together, interfacing is the 'bread. Stitch the sides closed, and trim away about half of seam allowance. I like to baste around the bottom at this point to keep all the layers even. If you baste out near the edges you will not have to remove your basting stitches as they will be hidden in the seam allowance. Repeat with the exterior fabric, but do not trim or baste.


Take the lining bottom and interfacing pieces and baste them together. Working in a circle will often create a buckle in the fabric, so I baste down each long side, then across the short ends, and finally around the curves. It sounds weird, but I promise if you baste (by machine) around the oval the fabric will stretch and buckle and you'll be picking out those stitches.

Next, pin lining to lining bottom matching notches. Take your time, pin at 12, 6, 3 and 9 o'clock, then halve those distances and pin again. You will have to ease* the fabric into place, especially in the curves. Stitch to sides and repeat with lining pieces. I always turn the pieces rightside out after stitching to check my work. Remove any basting stitches that show. Lay the bag pieces aside for a moment and move over to the handles.

Combine one handle and one piece of interfacing (interfacing to wrong side of fabric). Fold in half lengthwise and iron. You may find that the interfacing peeks out from the edge a bit, just trim. Then fold cut edges to center of interfacing side and iron again, you should have a 'v' of fabric with raw edges to bottom of 'v'. Take handles to sewing machine and stitch one quarter inch from each edge for full length of handle. Again, take your time, the thickness of the fabric, and how close you are working to the edge will make it try to wander off of the feed dogs. I use a thumb and forefinger to help guide the piece.

Flatten bag lining, (while still righside out) and measure 3 1/2 inches from each side and pin handle ends to bag, use two pins for each end to them becoming crooked. It is easy to twist the handles, and trust me, its alot to rip to fix it, so be sure to double check them. I usuall put the double edge to the center. Pin ribbon tie (if desired) to center point.

Ok, now comes the 'turning trick'. It's going seem really wrong, but trust me it will work. Take lining (turned right side out) and slip it inside of exterior bag (still turned wrong side out). Pin outside to lining starting at side seams and using the 12, 6, 9 and 3 pattern again. Once pinned head back to the sewing machine. I recommend starting at one of the side seams, being sure to backstitch. I generally use a deeper seam allowance here (approx 1/2 inch). After crossing each handle reverse machine over entire width of handle and then travel forward again - you will pass over each handle three times. When you reach the fourth handle end backstitch again and remove from machine. DO NOT SEW ENTIRE TOP CLOSED.

Carefully pull the lining through hole left in top edge. Keep pulling until entire bag is right side out. Push lining into bag, fold edges of opening where you turned bag closed and pin. Iron around top edge. Return to sewing machine and top stitch (starting at side seam near open edge) all the way around top, about 1/4 inch from edge. You should catch the handles again, but do not need to make multiple passes over them.

Clip ends of ribbon at an angle and apply 'fray check' to prevent raveling. Alternativly you can add beads and knot ends. And, voila - you've made yourself a bag!

* Working on a curve creates bulk, easing is to carefully work that bulk into the seam without creating a buckle. It can be tricky, just go slow and be patient.